Front - STEERING

Since I am putting a newer LSX engine in the Chevelle, I will be using the newer power steering pump and therefore, there is no need to convert the steering pump lines from metric to standard. I will use a steering box that already has metric connectors so factory lines will hook right up. I wanted to take advantage of the quick steer boxes for an improvement over the original box. I found that the following Jeep Grand Cherokee (JGC) work straight as is.
YEAR TRAVEL
1992.5-93-94 1995 1996 1997-98
ALPHA CODE
AL JH KD WK
ORIGINAL APP
Jeep Grand Cherokee Jeep Grand Cherokee Jeep Grand Cherokee Jeep Grand Cherokee
GEAR RATIO
20.6 20.6 20.6 20.6
EFFORT
0.195 Dia 0.195 Dia 0.195 Dia 0.195 Dia
T-BAR SIZE
43deg 45 min 43deg 45 min 43deg 45 min 43deg 45 min
I found a guy locally parting out a 97 JGC with 188k miles on it. These are known as the 3 and a quarter turn boxes. It had the code WK so I know it was right. You cannot count on parts sellers like AutoZone, O'Reilly's and such to sell you the correct ratio box because they will sell you a box that physically fits but the internals are more time than not, Not the quick ratio. So it is better to find one yourself and verify the code. Or you can buy a rebuilt one from Hector Carrillo, also under CARHEX. Go to www.facebook.com/carhex1. Great guy, great work, and great prices.
It is real hard to make it out, but it is there circled in red. I found information in a post: “I run the truck power steering pump also with the Jeep Grand Cherokee (JGC) steering box. I searched quite a bit and found the hoses that fit the nicest for me and they are master power pressure hose 71796 and return hose is master power 80194 trimmed to fit.
Rag joint: Dorman 31011 ¾” 17 spline. 32 lb/ft for the rag joint bolt to the steering box splined shaft. I just have a hose here to close off the 2 fluid ports until I am ready to hook up the pump. If you don’t do this the fluid will spit-up out of the ports when you turn the pitman arm.
I put new bolts through the frame (7/16” x 4.5” long) reused good original thick washers, tighten 64 lb-ft.
I re-used the Chevelle pitman arm, wire-brushed it, degreased and painted, tighten nut to 180lbs/ft.
Steering Linkage
1970 tie rod assemblies have 5/8” threaded parts, in 1971 and 1972 they made them bigger 11/16” threads, be sure to match up all of your tie-rods and sleeves to the same larger 11/16” size.
I used aluminum tie-rod sleeves, these have left handed threads on one side and right handed threads on the other so that as you turn it, the distance between the tie-rod ends move out or in. You can actually buy these from McMaster.com. Made out of 7075 high strength aluminum that is stronger than steel. Tie rods assembled are about 17-3/4” on a perfectly aligned front end.
I only use Moog suspension parts because I have had failures with other brands. The following are all Moog numbers:Center link DS749Idler Arm K5143Inner tie-rods ES406LOuter tie-rods ES406R It is important to use the inners on the inside and the outers on the outside due to the location of the grease fittings.
I bought a pack of these grease fitting covers to keep the tips clean for clean re-lubing them in the future.
I am leaving the front sway bar and front shocks off right now because I am not sure what the final ride height will be and most likely I will have to remove the springs. Leaving the sway bar and shocks out just save me from removing them. I will be using a 1.25” sway bar with poly bushing mounts. That’s all for the front for now.
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